The three questions every founder asks on the first call. Here are the honest numbers, the trade-offs, and the situations where we bend them.
- Author
- Rohit Pillai
- Founder
- Published
- Dec 2025
- Reading
- 6 min

Three questions come up on almost every first call: what is your MOQ, how long does production take, and how much will this cost? Most websites answer vaguely. Here are the honest numbers, the trade-offs behind them, and the handful of situations where we genuinely bend the rules.
MOQ — the real number
Our standard MOQ for private label is 200 pieces per style. That is not a marketing number, it is the quantity at which our sample-to-bulk economics stop losing money for you and for us. Below 200 pieces, your per-piece cost balloons because the fixed costs (pattern, marker, sample rounds, setup) are spread across too few units.
- Base woven styles (dresses, shirts, tops): 200 pcs / style.
- Knit styles (tees, jersey): 300 pcs / style — knit lines run more efficiently at higher volumes.
- Co-ord sets (two pieces): 150 sets / style, split across the two pieces.
- Bespoke embroidery or print: 300 pcs / style / colourway.
Lead times — honestly
From a signed tech pack to the first shipment, expect 10 to 14 weeks. That breaks down roughly as: 2 weeks for sampling, 1 week for fabric receipt, 4-6 weeks for production, 1 week for QC and finishing, and 1-2 weeks buffer for anything unexpected. The buffer is the most important line in that list.
Pricing — how we build a quote
A MILAY quote has five line items: fabric, trims, making cost (CMT), finishing, and overheads. We share the breakdown with our partners — we do not hide behind a single number. The CMT (cut, make, trim) charge depends on the style complexity; a simple tee runs ₹80-120, a tailored dress with a lining and button placket runs ₹350-550.
- Fabric: billed at the rate we paid the mill plus a small sourcing margin.
- Trims: at cost, with a transparent markup for bulk buying.
- CMT: fixed per style, quoted after sampling.
- Finishing: pressing, folding, polybag, hangtag — per piece.
- Overheads: a small line for QC, documentation and line management.
When we flex
We do make exceptions when the math works. A well-prepared founder with a finished tech pack, a clear fabric brief and a realistic timeline is a very different customer than one asking for 50 pieces of a never-made-before silhouette in three weeks. Tell us the full picture and we will tell you, honestly, whether it fits our floor this month.
The best partnerships start with a straight conversation, not a negotiation.

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